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October 1-20, 2006
In October of 2006 I will be taking a group to India. On this trip we will be tracing the Ganges from the ocean near Calcutta to its source in the Himalayas at Gaumuk.
Along the way, we will be stopping at some of the most important spiritual centers in India.
In India, the Ganges is called Mother Ganga, and is worshiped as a goddess. In ancient times, the vedic culture centered around the Saraswati river, which provided the water and fertile farmland in the area where the Mahabharata war and many of the historic events of ancient India took place. About 5000 years ago, probably through some kind of cataclysmic event, the Saraswati river dried up, resulting in a relocation of the population to the area surrounding the Ganges. Since then, the Ganges has been the center of life and culture for North India. With its network of small streams and tributaries pouring down from the Himalayas and forming the main river near the plains, the Ganges is believed by many to be the hair of Lord Siva, the god who destroys suffering. A dip in the Ganges is said to wash away ones sins. (Bring your swimming suite!)
Our trip will begin in Calcutta, one of India’s largest and most intriguing cities. Calcutta is the abode of Kali, the Goddess of destruction, who is the wife of Lord Siva. It is here that the great saint Ramakrishna lived. This is also where Mother Theresa worked with the poorest of the poor and it is still an important center for the Sisters of Charity, who carry on her work. In Calcutta, we will visit a powerful Kali temple and also begin our trip by doing a puja (a short vedic ceremony) at the spot where the Ganges enters the ocean.
After Calcutta, we will travel by overnight sleeper train to Varanasi. India has one of the best train systems in the world. We will take a first class, air conditioned, sleeper coach, which is an adventure in itself. Clean bedding and linen are provided for each traveler, providing a comfortable overnight journey to the most colorful and ancient city in India.
Varanasi (Benares) is the oldest and holiest city in India. All good Hindus seek to end their lives on its banks, so it is the center for cremation ceremonies and funeral rites. Here we will explore the intricate mazes of narrow lanes of old Benares, and visit a great astrologer who lives there. Varanasi is also the home of Muni Baba, a silent Naga saint. With a little luck, we may be able to see him as well. In the evening we will take a mystical ride on gondolas along the banks of the Ganges and watch the aarti (fire offering by priests to the river) from the boat.
Near Varanasi is Allahabad, the site at which Kumba Mela (a huge spiritual festival) is celebrated on the Ganges every 12 years. At the time of the Kumba Mela, literally millions of devout Hindus converge on the Ganges and bathe in its sacred waters. We will not be arriving at the time of the festival, but will be seeking an audience with the Shankaracharya (the head of the Hindu religion) who is a highly respected spiritual leader in India.
After Allahabad we will fly to Delhi, where we will stay in a first class hotel, ride in rickshaws through the narrow lanes of old Delhi, and have an opportunity for a little shopping. Delhi is also the place of one of the ashrams of Hans Baba, a naked yogi who gives shaktipat (spiritual energy transmission). If Hans Baba is there, we will visit him.
From Delhi we travel to Rishikesh, where the Ganges emerges from the Mountains. Rishikesh is the center for ashrams and yoga. We will take a boat ride on Ganges, visit ashrams, and attend a yagya (fire ritual) performed by Vedic pundits. Rishikesh is also the home of Siddhi Ma, a great lady saint. If she is there, we will try to get an audience with her.
At this point the trip starts to become a real adventure, as we begin our journey into the Himalayas. Stopping overnight in Uttarkashi, we will travel to Gangotri. At 9000 feet, Gangotri is the old source of the Ganges. It is a beautiful mountain village which centers around the raging icy white water of the newly born Ganges. The river is lined on each side with ashrams, shop and hotels. A footbridge links the hotels and shops on one side to the ashrams on the other. We will stay in a simple mountain hotel. Although our accommodations will include clean rooms with a private bathrooms, sinks and western style toilets, there will be no running hot water. However, hot water for bathing will be brought to the door each morning in a bucket. Although the beds have heavy quilts, it is recommended that trip participants bring their sleeping bags. Clean sleeping bags will be provided for those who do not own their own.
In the last several decades, the glacier has receded as the climate has become warmer. At the present time, the true source of the Ganges emerges from Gaumuk, 13 miles north of Gangotri. The path to gaumuk is spectacular, traversing the mountain side along the river. This part of the trip can easily be done on foot if you are in relatively good shape and like to walk. The incline is not very steep and the hike takes about 6 hours. For those who are not hikers, dolies (chairs carried by porters) will be provided. The trip can also be done on horse back. At Gaumuk we will have a final puja at the glacier, and complete our pilgrimage at the river’s source. We will stay overnight in large army tents, sleeping on futon beds in sleeping bags.
Gangotri and Gaumuk are the great pilgrimage destinations for all devout Hindus. As a result it is common to meet saints, sadus and yogis there. Our Indian guide, Rajiv, will be on the alert to seek out these elusive mystics and assist us in meeting them when possible.
At the end of the trip we will return to Rishikesh. We will stop at the cave of the famous ancient sage, Vashishtha, and have a group meditation in the cave. At this point each person will have the option of returning to Rishikesh by bus (90 minutes) or by river raft. The optional river rafting portion will begin at Vashishtha’s cave and will take 4 hours to return to Rishikesh. This part of the trip promises to be a spectacular and thrilling finale.
If you have every wanted to take a trip to India, but have been hesitant because of the fear of getting sick, or simply because you didn’t know where to go or what to do there, you may want to consider coming on this pilgrimage to the source of the Ganges. The trip is designed with a variety of spectacular, classical destinations, excellent and safe food, and comfortable, clean accommodations. Although this is a traditional Hindu pilgrimage route, the trip will be flexible and fun as well. It is designed to accommodate a variety of travel needs, and is open to any spiritually inclined person. The highest two destinations in the Himalayas, however, require a flexible campers-attitude, the willingness to take a bath in a bucket of hot water and to sleep in a sleeping bag. For those who require 5-star comfort at all times, this part of the trip will disappoint. On the other hand, for those who thrive on the spiritual vibration of 25 thousand-foot peaks, raging rivers, ashrams, yogis, and high mountain air, this will be part of the great adventure of a true pilgrimage.
For more information see the itinerary which is posted on the India page of this website, or contact James Kelleher at 408-354-6719 or james@jameskelleher.com
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